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A Medieval Country Castle For Sale Schloss Matzen, one of Europe's most romantic medieval castles, lies high in the Austrian Tyrol, where the air is as crisp as dry wine. Flanked by towering Alps, the castle, a national monument, rests on a large rock formation rising from the heart of the beautiful Inn Valley. The private country castle, has been American -owned since the mid-1950s by the Kump family.

Austrian Medieval Country Castle For Sale

The location is Reith im Alpbachtal, in the Tyrolean Alps of western Austria, approx. 30 miles/50 km northeast of Innsbruck, about a 90 minute drive or train from Munich or Salzburg (it is less than 5 minutes drive from the nearest train station and Autobahn exit).

The castle was first referred to in 1167 and has been privately owned ever since. Its Baroque chapel was twice consecrated by bishops who would go on to become pope and Teddy Roosevelt visited as a hunting companion of the former owner at the turn of the last century.

The size of the building is 1,858 Mq. (approx. 20,000 square ft.), including the 6 story tower, on a 2,4 hectare (approx. 6 acre) lot, half-surrounded by an Austrian nationally-protected public park. There are approximately 60 rooms, depending on how you count rooms (there are several long, arcade passageways), including 12 guest rooms appointed with antique furnishing and private bathrooms with modern heating, plumbing and electricity. It's condition is good. The entire building and tower were just reroofed in the past 6 years, and much of the heating system (oil furnace), plumbing, sewer, and electrical, and phone systems have also been recently upgraded. It is connected to the local sewer system and has its own private, free spring water supply, with hook up to the town water system possible.

Price: 6,000,000 Euros (Currency Conversion)

Email: c.hill@ItalyConsultants.com

A BRIEF HISTORY OF SCHLOSS MATZEN: inspired by Tyrol: The Land in the Mountains, by W.A. Baillie-Grohman

THE FIRST MILLENNIUM

Since long before the Christian era, the enormous rock upon which Schloss Matzen's tower stands has been a place of habitation as revealed by the pre-Roman utensils, ornaments and arms that have been dug up there. The lower part of the tower is of Roman origin, and the rest of it and the castle as well are of a later date. Rome conquered Tyrol in 15 B.C., creating the province of Raetia. Soon after, a Roman station called Masciacum stood on this rock overlooking the main road that led from Italy over the Brenner Pass to Germany. The Romans selected the site because the Inn River used to flow around the rock, giving the watchtower command over the river traffic. Until the railroad was built in the 1860s, the Inn River was the primary route for the barges and boats carrying most of the freight that passed through this part of the world. The great round tower, like other speculae or watchtowers, garrisoned Roman soldiers. The entrance to the tower, which is still visible, was some 20 feet up, requiring a long ladder that was pulled inside for added protection. Through the code of semaphores--smoke signals by day and alarm-fires by night--the Romans transmited important news from tower to tower throughout the empire with a speed excelled only by the telegraph, invented in the 1800s. Because the low lands around the tower used to be covered with dense brush, home to wolves and wild boars, traffic kept to a high road on the mountain side of the tower rather than the valley side (between Matzen and the river), where it is now. Sometime prior to 1176 a huge earthquake caused a stupendous rock and earth slide from the Sonnwendjoch mountain on the north side of the valley, damming up the Inn. When the river finally burst through, it shifted its course to the present one, some three hundred meters away.

MATZEN'S FIRST FAMILY : THE FREUNDSBERGS

The first family whose record we have were the Freundsbergs, foremost among the Tyrolean nobles of the Gothic era. They owned Matzen for over 300 years, from at least 1167 (probably earlier) to the fall of 1468. They took a leading role in the strenuous history of their times--waylaying and robbing traders, travelers and bishops, fighting personal feuds with often bloody ends, pillaging monastaries, burning castles, and sacking towns-- all at the behest of their liege lords, the counts and subsequent dukes of Tyrol, who were Habsburgs, the longest reigning family in European history. Originally, Matzen was probably the Freundsbergs’ sole possession, but by the 12th century it had become the principal seat of the chief branch of the family. By the middle of the 14th century they had acquired almost supreme command over large portions of Northern Tyrol. They owned many other castles, some nearby such as Schloss Lichtwehr and Schloss Tratzberg, and others as far away as South Tyrol, today part of Italy, where the castles included vineyards. It was one of the Freundsbergs living across the way in the smaller Schloss Lichtwehr who was said to have killed his brother, standing in a window at Matzen, with a well-aimed crossbow shot. At this time Matzen was a series of buildings forming a fortress. It included a chapel, consecrated on November 23, 1176, by the Archbishop Conrad of Wittselsbach, an ancestor of the Kings of England. An ancient copy of the deed of consecration is in the chapel, a 16th-century translation of the original.

THE GREAT SIEGE OF MATZEN

In 1410, the most famous siege of Matzen occurred. Henry of Rottenberg, a powerful kinsman of the Freundsbergs who owned twenty-four castles, waged war on his lord, Frederick, Emperor of the Tyrol. He was finally vanquished and forced to flee to Bavaria, whose rulers were always pleased to score against the Habsburgs. He returned with three Bavarian dukes and an army of over 700 cavalry, 200 marksmen armed with bows and handguns, 800 footsmen armed with pikes and swords, and artillery, including one big cannon and 50 smaller guns. Their first objective was to take Matzen by assault or siege. Ulrich von Freundsberg's heroic defense of his family's home was instrumental in the defeat of the Barvarians and the fall of the traitorous Rottenberg. After a siege lasting three to four weeks, relief finally came from an army headed by the Emperor Frederick, who gathered his forces at Innsbruck and Hall and came marching down the Inn Valley. As they reached Schloss Tratzberg, the Archbishop Eberhard of Salzburg, who owned Schloss Krapsberg (between Matzen and Tratzberg and today in ruins), appeared and patched up a truce. Rottenberg was imprisoned and ultimately poisoned. The damage to Matzen from this long battle must have been enormous. Though few details have come down to us, three-foot stone cannon balls were found in the filled in space outside the upper courtyard once spanned by the drawbridge. By the end of this century an odd thing happened: The Freundsbergs’ long tenure of Matzen came to an end with the sudden departure of the entire main branch of the family from Tyrol to neighboring Schwabia. Matzen was sold along with Schloss Lichtwehr in 1468. The voluntary uprooting of a great territorial family was an exceedingly rare event, but whatever the reasons, they are unknown to us.

THE TRANSFORMATION FROM A FORTRESS

In 1468 Matzen passed into the possession of the Chamberlain of Archduke Sigismund, the noble Mathew Türndl. The Türndls, newly created nobles, had amassed great wealth from the Schwaz silver mines. Schwaz, just 15 kilometers down the Inn Valley towards Innsbruck, was the greatest silver mining city in Europe at the time. Reportedly, Schwaz's main street was paved in silver. Even today, this small town's church is impressive, larger than many cities' cathedrals, a testimony to its once prominent status. It was probably the Türndls in the 15th century who began turning a fortress into a beautiful residence by rebuilding the low vaulted rooms with their small, occasional windows into more pleasant rooms with large casements. The absence of the usual thick stone walls reflects the new age when gunpowder made such defenses obsolete. They renovated the wooden parapets and Wehrgange encircling the inner walls--not unlike the wooden catwalks which still exist--into four tiers of cloistered arcades around two sides of the main courtyard. By doing this they joined the several detached portions of the stronghold. Two years after their purchase of Matzen, they had the chapel reconsecrated by Cardinal Francis Piccolomini, subsequently Pope Pius III. Of all popes, he had the shortest reign, dying the fifth day after his enthronement. Knight Mathew Türndl died about 1483, and his son George sold the castle around 1492 to Knight Anthony von Ross, a relative by marriage. Ross, a wealthy man and one of the foremost silver smelters of Schwaz, owned several mines in Tyrol. After his death came several lawsuits of which we know little, with ownership passing amongst other members of the family. By 1551 Jacob Zoppl, head of the nearby Rattenberg smelting works, was the new owner. He was raised to knighthood by the Emperor Charles V. Soon after, about 1559, he died, and the guardians of his young child sold Matzen to Knight George Ilsung von Tratzberg. For the third time Tratzberg and Matzen were in the same hands---the previous two times having been during the Freundsberg tenure. The Ilsungs, wealthy merchant princes of Augsburg and also mine-owners at Schwaz, were kinsmen of the famous Fugger family.

THE EXTRAORDINARY RISE OF THE FUGGERS

In 1589 George Ilsung died, and Matzen and Tratzberg passed into the possession of Count Jacob Fugger. The Fuggers were one of the wealthiest and most renowned families of Europe whose rise from rags to riches was extraordinary. The first generation began as simple weavers of fustian---a thick, twilled cotton cloth with a short nap. Soon they became copper and silver smelters, moving up to becoming money lenders, and nobles. The second generation were acknowledged silver "kings,"speculators in pepper and mercury, bankers, and counts of the Holy Roman Empire. By the third generation the family had become "dear and faithful sons" of popes, "honored and trusty friends" of emperors, farmers of state revenues, tenfold millionaires, princes of the empire, holders of the purse strings of Europe, and possessors of the most vast accumulation of wealth ever united in one family. Their history was directly a part of that remarkable period of transition in the second half of the 15th century when medievalism merged into modernity.

THE ROLE OF SILVER AND THE EMERGENCE OF MODERNISM

Before the discovery of the rich Tyrolean silver mines, coined money throughout Europe was almost nonexistent. Because of a lack of legal tender, wages, rents, tithes and most regular payments were made only once a year, sometimes only every two years, or they were settled by trade. The remittance of money to distant places was slow, costly, and risky, resulting in the accumulated wealth of even the richest familes being small. Financial business at that time consisted largely of lending money on the security of valubles or on assured revenues. Even the highest rulers often had to pawn their most treasured articles. For instance, when Pope John XXII died, his mitre was in pawn with the De Medicis as part of the ransom paid to release him from his German prison. The next pope got it back without paying by threatening excommunication! When the Schwaz mines began to pour out their silver, its value increased dramatically to meet the demands of a parched financial world. With the rise of militarism and the need for standing armies as feudalism with its supply of peasants declined, the Schwaz silver mines provided the financing for at least half a century of the wars of Maximilian and Charles V. The Fuggers quickly seized the opportunities presented by the need for newer methods and expanded currency. Partly through a family law that prevented any male member of the family from withdrawing his share from the business and a great deal of luck and financial genius, the Fuggers utlimately controlled the entire silver output of Tyrol. The ready cash of the Fuggers played an enormously influential role in shaping the destinies of countries, the wars in which they engaged, and also the dynasties ruling them. The Fuggers' millions decided the election of the heads of the Holy Roman Empire on at least two occasions. And they were prolific: by 1619 there were 49 princes or counts and 47 princesses or countesses Fugger. As collectors they were forerunners of the Rothschilds, whom they outdistanced in terms of their financial power. While Matzen was in the hands of the Fuggers, the rooms were filled with the choicest furniture, pictures and fittings. Three huge faience stoves or kachlofens, ten feet in height, still remain. The crucifix, a masterpiece of Durer's school that once hung in the chapel, may be seen in the Innsbruck Landes Museum. During the Thirty Years' War and the War of the Spanish Succession in the mid-17th century, most of the Inn Valley castles were plundered and many were razed to the ground. Schloss Matzen luckily survived this era, and it wasn't until the middle of this period that the financial house of the Fuggers fell. At that time the Habsburgs owed them 8 million florins, or about 100 million dollars today. In 1657 the Fuggers sold Matzen to Baron Anthony Girardi, a notorious favorite of Archduchess Claudia. But probably because of court intrigues in which he played a major role, in less than two years the baron sold it to Mathew Pockh zu Arnholz, a noble who was the Archbishop of Salzburg's Chamberlain. Pockh held Matzen 25 years before selling it to Chancellor Johannes Frederick von Hirsch, in 1684, who in turn sold it after 50 years to Knight Joseph von Pfeiffersberg in 1734.

MATZEN WITHSTANDS NAPOLEON'S FORCES

During the 140 years the von Pfeiffersbergs kept Matzen for 140 years, its old walls witnessed hard fighting by Napoleon's French and Bavarian armies. Andreas Hofer, the leader of the Tyrolean peasants, plotted the defense of Tyrol at the Herrnhaus, which is still in business as an inn in Brixlegg. On the top of the Roman tower were placed some light field guns, embrasures (openings for guns which widen toward the outside) being hastily broken in the walls to accomodate them to fire down upon the road far below. Hofer, who is now considered the George Washington of Tyrol, delivered Napoleon three successive defeats before finally succumbing to the latter’s overwhelming numerical advantage. Later Matzen was used as a hospital, which is perhaps why it once again escaped being sacked and destroyed. The impoverishment of the Tyrol population after this war was such that the Pfeiffersbergs could not keep up repairs. After selling off the remaining treasures, they abandoned Matzen to its fate and moved down into the present Gut Matzen, which once had been the castle's gatehouse, servants' quarters and stables. Matzen's roof disintegrated, rain caused ceilings to begin to crumble, and soon it turned into a place for exploration and play by the village children. For the first time Matzen stood empty, as it remained for about five years.

FANNY READ GROHMAN'S RESTORATION

Thus it was that in 1873 Matzen was bought for a trifling sum by an Irish woman, Fanny Read who was married to Adolph Grohmann, a Viennese businessman. She immediately set to work to restore it and had carpenters and masons working on it steadily for over two years. During this time the moat was filled in, creating the present driveway that approaches the Roman tower. Her son, William Adolph Baillie-Grohman, who changed the family name to reflect his choice of British citizenship, was an author, hunter, and gentleman who, with his wife, Florence, took great care of Schloss Matzen. He hunted in Europe and North America and many of his trophies still line the halls, including bison from the American plains and one of the largest elk ever hunted in Wyoming. Theodore Roosevelt was a friend and hunting companion who visited Matzen on at least one occasion. Baillie-Grohman's books on Tyrol, and Matzen in particular, provide much of our knowledge of the castle’s history and are available to puruse during your stay. The Baillie-Grohmans kept Matzen for 84 years, including through both World Wars: during the first, Willy and Flo were allowed to remain in Matzen, though under house arrest (they were British citizens); during the second, Flo had to flee to England with her children, Tom and Olga, while her Austrian inlaws (Willy’s sisters and their families) struggled to hold on to Matzen during the Nazi occupation. In 1957 Michael Baillie-Grohman, Tom’s son, had lost most of his money due to gambling debts and the general hard times created by World War II, and once again Matzen was up for sale.

SCHLOSS MATZEN TODAY

On a business trip to Europe, Ernest Kump, a first generation American of Austrian ancestry on both sides, visited Matzen out of curiosity. Upon learning of the low selling price, he succumbed to Matzen's charms and with the enthusiastic approval of his wife, used a small inheritance to purchase it. As a leading American architect he could help Matzen adjust to modern times. The Kumps carefully renovated Matzen, wiring the entire castle for modern electrical needs, building modern bathrooms where there had been only a few primitive ones for the entire structure, and taking on the herculean task of bringing in central heating so that for the first time Matzen would be comfortable in winter. They also glassed in the middle arcade, which simutaneously preserved the medieval architecture and completed the joining of the once separate portions of Matzen into a whole. Schloss Matzen is well poised to enter its third millennium for the pleasure of many more as the unique castle that it is.

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